For the first time, most of what I liked best at Esxence is Italian.
First of all the Masque Milano line. I’ve been following this brand since its not so brilliant start with two fragrances that are not even worth mentioning. After a reflection, the founders Alessandro Brun e Riccardo Tedeschi, two engineers, decided to improve their creative process, so they hired some really good noses (Delphine Thierry, Meo Fusciuni and Cecile Zarokian) and fragrance expert Maria Grazia Fornasier-Cajelli of Moulillettes and CO, as a consultant.
The result is a line of four opera inspired, dramatic fragrances, each deserving its own review asap: Montecristo and, Terralba both by Delphine Thierry, Luci e Ombre by Meo Fusciuni and Tango by Cecile Zaròkian.
At their stand visitors could smell the fragrances by wearing a scented mask and looking at themselves in a mirror.
The documentary movie The Nose by Paul Rutger tells the story of Blamage, the last fragrance of the Nasomatto (“crazy nose”) line by Alessandro Gualtieri. At the Italian premiere during Esxence what I liked best was the dialogue between Gualtieri and Victoria Christian. When he told her “What I like best in your n°1 is the cat poo smell!” I almost dropped off my seat laughing. You should see the movie just for ms Christian’s face. By the way, there’s civet, in the fragrance, and it smells just like that. Alas, this hilarious part is not in the preview released on Vimeo.
The premiére was also the occasion to smell Blamage for the first time. It’s excellent and very different from the other Nasomatto, because it’s very green and not animalic at all. Maybe the original idea of starting with some random chosen raw materials, led Alessandro to explore new paths in his fragrant journey.
Last but not least, I was thrilled by Antonio Alessandria Parfums. Antonio, also an engineer – maybe Italy does not issue many technological fragrances because all our engineers go into perfumery – first opened a niche perfumery in Catania and now has his own line, made of three fragrances inspired by the night.